What You Need To Know About Pressure Washing Your House

What You Need To Know About Pressure Washing Your House

In Central Florida, pressure washing the exterior of your house is part of practicing good regular maintenance. Our humid subtropical climate promotes the growth of mildew, mold and algae – and “pollen season” in spring covers every stationary exterior surface with a thick coat of the stuff. Add to that the build-up of regular dirt and grime, which means the typical house should have a thorough cleaning on a regular basis.

Ignoring these conditions not only results in a dingy appearance, but can actually damage your home and pose a health hazard. As noted by New Life Painting, mildew and mold continue to grow if left unchecked – and mold can grow within walls, meaning your home’s interior could be affected. Our blog post – “Is Your Home’s Exterior Covered In Mildew?” – covers this topic in greater detail.

Moreover, pressure washing is definitely required before you paint it, or to improve its curb appeal if you’re planning to sell.

Whether you’re a new (or relatively new) Florida resident – or a new homeowner just learning about taking care of your property – we at The Paint Manager offer this informal introductory course about pressure washing. But don’t worry – there’s no test at the end!

When Should You Pressure Wash Your House?

Mid-spring and early fall are the best times of year to perform this task. March and April are the peak of pollen season, while October marks the downside of hurricane season (June 1 through November 30). By the way, if you’re planning to paint your house, these are the best windows of opportunity for this job, as well. Our blog post – “When Is The Best Time Of Year To Have My House Painted?” – covers this topic in greater detail.

However, if you notice mildew and algae growth, don’t wait, regardless of the season! Likewise if you’re putting your house on the market. Having it look its best for prospective buyers takes priority over timing the pressure cleaning so that the exterior stays clean for as long as possible.

Thinking About Doing it Yourself? Here’s What’s Involved!

If you’re young (or youngish), strong and sturdy – and want to save a few bucks – you might think that you can take the DIY route. We invite you to read the following instructions presented by The Home Depot, then decide!

Choose a pressure washer – Whether you buy or rent a pressure washer, make sure it’s appropriate for the job. Depending on the exterior of your house, you may need to use a certain type of pressure washer to match the housing materials to the right water pressure levels. 

  • Vinyl siding can withstand a powerful gas pressure washer (2,500-3,000 psi).
  • Aluminum, stucco or soft-grain wood homes will do better with a less powerful washer (about 1,200-1,500 psi).
  • Decide if you need any accessories such as pressure washer extension wands or pressure washer telescoping wands, which are helpful when cleaning two-story homes or hard-to-reach areas.

 

Prepare the area and put on safety gear:

  • Before you begin, remove or cover such items as light fixtures and air conditioner compressors to protect them from damage.
  • Use a tarp or plastic covering over shrubs and garden plants. Secure the tarps in place with duct tape. Note the location of windows and electrical outlets to ensure you avoid them while pressure washing.
  • Do not stand on a ladder when using a pressure washer. The pressure could cause you to lose your balance.
  • Never drive water directly into gaps or cracks in your home’s exterior. Patch cracks and holes in mortar and brick.
  • Keep your pressure washer wand at least 6 feet away from electrical wires and never spray water into outlets. Cover electrical sockets with duct tape or close the covers prior to washing.
  • Pre-scrub the exterior with a scrub brush or spray with a garden hose to remove any dirt, debris or mildew.
  • Never point a pressure washer at other people or pets.
  • Be sure to wear the proper protective gear – such as safety goggles and work gloves.

 

Set up the pressure washer:

  • Using a 5-gallon water bucket, mix water and a cleaning detergent with mildewcide according to manufacturer’s recommendations.
  • Attach your pressure washer to your garden hose. Choose the pressure washer nozzle you plan to use and attach it to your sprayer.
  • Step back about 3 feet from your home and test the pressure washer against the house. Adjust your stance and spray until you feel the pressure is strong enough to remove dirt or mildew without damaging the home’s exterior.

 

Clean from the bottom up:

  • Using the cleaning solution, start power washing at the bottom of the house and work your way up. Working from the top down can cause water and suds to run down the side of the house, making it more likely you’ll miss a section.
  • Spray in a horizontal, side-to-side motion.
  • When spraying roof overhangs and gutters, always maintain a 45-degree angle.

 

Finish up and let dry:

  • Turn off the pressure washer and disconnect it from the garden hose. 
  • Consult the owner’s manual for the proper steps for storing the pressure washer, such as draining liquid from the pump when finished.
  • Use just the garden hose to rinse the soap from your home with plain water.
  • Remove all tarps, drop cloths and duct tape.
  • If you plan to paint, allow the home’s exterior to completely dry. This typically takes about two days.

 

Having Second Thoughts About Doing it Yourself?

Even if you’re physically up to handling the job, there are clearly several factors to consider. First, are you really saving money by doing it yourself? As you’ve learned, there’s the expense of buying – or even renting – a pressure washer. Add to that the cost of protective gear, accessories, detergent, tarps, etc.

Being able to wield the pressure washer wand and aim the nozzle skillfully and safely is another factor. Dangers include using too much pressure or the wrong nozzle – which can damage surfaces (such as siding, mortar and wood), break windows and even cause injury. Improper use can also blast paint off, which means you’ll be repainting long before you intended.

Also, what’s your time worth? Are you willing to take a weekend to pressure wash your house? It’s grueling work, even under ideal circumstances. Remember that once you’re finished, you’ll have to disassemble the pressure washer, return it to the rental place (if applicable), clean up, remove tarp, etc. Our blog post – “Why You (or a Pro) Should Pressure Wash Your House” – covers this topic in greater detail.

The Advantages of Hiring a Professional to do the Job

A pressure washing pro has the skills and experience to handle every type of exterior cleaning job with the right equipment and cleaning solutions for the home’s construction material and paint. A professional knows how to prep the area and protect nearby plants. A professional has the expertise to clean specific areas without causing damage, and comes to your house with the proper protective clothing and gear. The task will be done quickly yet thoroughly, saving you valuable time and labor.

And speaking of saving, it might not cost as much as you may think! The Paint Manager provides our customers with the most professional and affordable pressure washing services available. Our services include hot and cold water pressure washing, steam cleaning, pressure cleaning (or power washing) of home exteriors, decks, driveways, sidewalks, curbs, townhomes, condos, commercial buildings – and more!

We have been proudly serving Central Florida for more than 20 years with experienced, dedicated and professional services that include full-service commercial painting, exterior and interior house painting, roof repair and cleaning, drywall repair, popcorn ceiling texture removal and cabinet refinishing – just to mention a few!

Plus, become a member of The Paint Manager to receive a 15% year-‘round member’s discount. Contact us to learn more about our services and membership discount offer. We look forward to meeting you!

 

Should You Paint Your Brick House?

Should You Paint Your Brick House?

Bricks are one of the oldest building materials, popular for use in home construction throughout much of history. The enduring appeal of brick homes can be attributed to their combination of durability and beauty. After all, in The Three Little Pigs, the brick house was the only dwelling that withstood the Big Bad Wolf’s huffing and puffing!

In addition to their strength, low maintenance is a big perceived advantage to brick homes, because brick doesn’t need to be painted. Or does it? Painting brick houses is something of a trend now, but is it really a good idea over the long term? We’ll look at the pros, cons and alternatives to paint that can give a tired-looking brick house a fresh appearance without the drawbacks.

 

Why Painting Your Brick House May Seem Like a Good Idea

Over time, bricks may become weather-beaten and discolored from extended exposure to the elements. Although still sound, a brick exterior can appear worn-out. Moreover, a homeowner may want a different, more updated look for their place – especially if they’re planning to sell, and feel the need to increase its curb appeal. Taking a house from boring to eye-catching can make a big difference in getting attention from house hunters. It’s a relatively quick fix that delivers dramatic bang-for-the-buck for a faster sale.

Even for those planning to stay in their home-sweet-brick-home, painting would seem to provide easier maintenance. Proponents claim that a painted brick house is easier to clean, creating a smooth surface that prevents pollen and debris from embedding – as they would in the rough and bumpy texture of bare brick. Also, paint helps protect brick from harsh elements – which, in Central Florida, include intense summer sun and extreme high temperatures – as well as water damage from hurricanes, tropical storms and almost daily afternoon thunderstorms June through August.

As remodeling expert Glenda Taylor writes for Bob Vila, painting can be necessary when a repair was made using new bricks that don’t match the original. In such a case, paint will create a seamless, uniform appearance.

Reasons Why You Shouldn’t Paint Your Brick House

Enthusiasm for the fresh, stylish look that a painted brick exterior gives may be rather short-lived. Painting has the following disadvantages worth considering.

Paint doesn’t last – Like all other types of exterior material – such as stucco, aluminum siding, concrete block and wood – once brick is painted, it must be repainted on a regular basis. Under normal circumstances, brick in good condition doesn’t need to be painted. Only exterior doors and trim need it. Repainting the entire exterior will be an expense you can count on approximately every five years.

There’s no going back – If you change your mind, paint cannot be easily (or perhaps completely) removed from brick. Removal must be performed by a professional contractor, as it requires blasting with sand or silicone beads, and will damage the brick if done improperly. Price will vary depending upon the size of the house and region, but regardless of variables, this remedy is expensive.

Moisture issues – Moisture can become trapped between the brick and paint. According to Taylor, “Brick is porous, but paint is not. Exterior paint forms a seal over the brick’s surface that will prevent any moisture in the bricks from evaporating and drying out. Trapped moisture, which can come from a leaky window or pipe, is a prime source of mold and mildew growth. What’s more, moisture in the bricks can cause the paint to release and peel off.” In addition, trapped moisture will damage the brick itself.

Staining Your Brick House – A Beautiful, Safe Alternative to Painting

Fortunately, there is an alternative to painting for those who want to improve the appearance of their brick home. Although it isn’t as widely known, staining provides a great option that offers the visual advantages of paint, without the serious drawbacks.

Brick stain is a permanent finish made of mineral-based pigments that seep into and form a chemical bond with the brick itself – rather than remaining on the surface, as paint does. The nature of brick stain gives it the advantages of acting as a moisture barrier while allowing the brick to breathe.

According to brick stain manufacturer BrickImaging, “Staining your brick will maintain the natural integrity of the brick and allow it to keep its texture and look. It also does not ‘cake’ the brick, meaning it soaks into the brick and allows the porous material to breathe. It’s basically acting as a dye, which complements the natural characteristics of brick instead of covering them.”

Also good to keep in mind for Central Florida’s climate, stain does not discolor or melt when heated, so it’s able to withstand the heat as much as the brick itself. Nor will it chip or flake from prolonged exposure to harsh elements.

You may have seen homes and commercial buildings with brick stain, and not been aware of it. Brick stain comes in a wide range of colors – from light and transparent to bold and opaque – allowing you to achieve any kind of look you want.

Another major advantage is that when properly applied, brick stain can last indefinitely. Unlike paint, you’ll never have to reapply at regular intervals. Not only does this help you save money, it also helps the environment. As BrickImaging notes, “Over time, the paint deteriorates from the brick and is absorbed into the environment. The brick will last longer than the paint applied to it.”

If you’re planning to put your brick house on the market, staining will boost its curb appeal while putting potential buyers at ease about its condition. Taylor writes, “Coming across a freshly painted brick home while house-hunting should send up a red flag. Paint camouflages a host of problems, including cracks in mortar joints, soft mortar, or the presence of efflorescence – a powdery white substance that indicates high levels of moisture within the brick.” Staining the brick will show buyers that you have nothing to hide!

Our blog post – “Should You Paint Your House Before Selling?” – obviously, focuses on painting. But the added value that a refreshed exterior makes still applies, even if it involves staining brick. Making the investment could pay off in a faster sale, and help you get full asking price.

The Take-Home Message

Painting your brick house can give it an updated, more trendy look, but the immediate benefit may be short-lived and ultimately not worth the trade-off in potential damage to the brick and risk of mold and mildew growth. Not to mention the expense of having to repaint approximately every five years, should you stay in your home.

Stain offers an aesthetically pleasing way to revitalize a brick house that preserves the integrity of the brick while protecting it from the elements. Although it typically isn’t well publicized, brick stain is well worth looking into for those wanting to improve the appearance – and/or market value – of their house.

Do you think that brick stain could be the ideal solution for your home’s exterior? Or even your commercial building? Call The Paint Manager! We have served Central Florida since 2000 with quality residential and commercial painting services. Visit our website to learn about the many other services we provide – including pressure washing, roof cleaning, popcorn ceiling removal and stump removal. Become a member of The Paint Manager to receive a 15% year-‘round member’s discount. Contact us to learn more about our services and membership discount offer. We look forward to meeting you!

How to Clean Your Gutters

How to Clean Your Gutters

Gutters aren’t glamorous, but they’re an essential component for protecting your home from water damage. Because gutters typically do their job unnoticed, they can be easy to forget – which is a big mistake when you don’t clean them on a regular basis. Since this is a fundamental part of home maintenance, the more you know about how your gutter system works, the importance of keeping it clean and how to do so will allow you to better keep your home in top condition.

The basic function of gutters is pretty straightforward – they tunnel rainwater off your roof through downspouts and away from your home. In her article for Angi, home writer Stacy Sare Cohen breaks down a gutter system’s components:

  • Gutter: Attaches to the edge of the eaves on your roof.
  • End cap: Closes gutters.
  • Fascia bracket: Connects to the eaves and provides structural support.
  • Downspout: Allows rainwater to travel from the roof to the ground.
  • Elbow: Snaps onto the downspout and redirects the water away from your home.

 

Why is Gutter Cleaning Important?

A clean gutter system protects your home’s roof, walls, foundation and landscape. As seasoned Central Floridians know, summer afternoon thunderstorms and prolonged heavy downpours from hurricane/tropical storm rain bands dump excessive amounts of rainwater on roofs. If debris – such as leaves, twigs, etc. – builds up in gutters, it could lead to sagging gutters, mold growth, a leaky roof or water damage to the interior or exterior of your home. Stagnant water pooling around and under your home eventually undermines its foundation. Gutters filled with debris can also make homes for rodents and other pests. As you can see, neglecting gutter maintenance tends to lead to extensive and expensive repairs down the line.

As Cohen explains in greater detail, rainwater stuck in gutters can destroy your home’s exterior – especially when the weight of the debris makes a gap in your gutter system. Areas affected include:

  • Soffits protecting your roof and keeping moisture out of the attic space.
  • Fascias ventilating the roof.

When these areas become waterlogged, they stop working. Mold, mildew and algae grow on the exterior wall – and paint begins to peel and chip.

As The Home Depot points out, gutters need to be cleaned at least twice a year – in the spring and in the fall. If you have pine trees near your home, needles will need to be removed every three months to reduce the potential for clogging the gutters and downspouts.

Step-by-Step Gutter Cleaning Instructions

If you’re considering doing this yourself, The Home Depot also generously provides the following step-by-step instructions:

Don’t clean gutters after a rain – Allowing a few dry days before cleaning your gutters will allow the debris to dry out, making the chore much easier. Start your gutter cleaning task near the downspout and work toward the closed end.

Practice ladder safety – Follow these precautions:

  • Never climb above the second to last step/rung.
  • Do not extend your reach.
  • Use a step ladder on solid level ground whenever possible.
  • For two-story homes, use an extension ladder.
  • Use a ladder stabilizer to help keep your ladder in place, if using an extension ladder.
  • If you are not comfortable on ladders, consider hiring a professional.

Clean debris from the gutters – Have two buckets available. Use one bucket for the debris you remove; the second to hold your tools. Hook the buckets to your ladder for easy access.

  • Wear safety glasses to keep bits of dried leaves and other debris out of your eyes.
  • Wear rubber gloves under your work gloves if the debris is damp. This will help keep your hands dry while protecting them.
  • Begin cleaning near a downspout. Place your ladder squarely on a level ground before you climb it.
  • Remove and clean the downspout strainer.
  • Clear large debris such as leaves and twigs by hand.
  • Use a trowel or gutter scoop for compacted debris.

Flush the gutters – After the large pieces of debris are removed, flush the remaining bits and dirt from the gutter with a garden hose.

  • Fit your garden house with a spray nozzle.
  • Flush out the gutter with water, starting at the far end and moving toward the downspout.
  • Use a strong stream of water and avoid spraying underneath the roof shingles.

Check the downspouts – Turn the hose on and spray down the spout. If the amount of water coming out is less than what is going in, there is a blockage.

  • Feed the hose up the downspout from the ground.
  • Turn the hose on at full pressure to try to dislodge the clog.
  • If this doesn’t dislodge the clog, use a plumber’s snake.

Check for gutter drainage and slope – When the downspout is clog-free, flush the gutters again. Check for proper water flow and drainage. Also look for any leaks at the seams.

  • If there is any standing water in the gutter, the gutter is not properly sloped. Gutters should slope 1/4-inch for every 10-feet toward the downspout. If your gutters do not slope properly, detach the hangers to adjust the gutters to the proper slope. 
  • Make sure all the gutters are secure and firmly attached to the house.
  • Inspect each gutter section and the downspout for damage. 
  • Add support hangers or reattach gutters to the fascia if needed.

Finish the gutter cleaning – Seal any leaking seams and joints with gutter sealant, following label instructions. Remove any mildew and dirt. Touch up with paint, if needed. Consider adding gutter screens to reduce the amount of work needed for future gutter cleaning.

Common Gutter Cleaning Mistakes

As you can probably see from the gutter cleaning instructions just listed, there are plenty of opportunities for things to go wrong. Better Homes & Gardens lists some of the most common:

You don’t clean your gutters often enough – At least twice a year is the typical recommendation, but more frequent cleanings could be necessary depending on your landscape. If your house is surrounded by trees, you’ll need to tend to your gutters more frequently, since they’re exposed to more debris and leaves. Pay attention to the condition of your gutters throughout the year.

You clean your gutters at the wrong time ­– In Central Florida, be sure the spring cleaning is done before the start of hurricane season, June 1. Our blog post – “Hurricane Season is Here! Make Sure Your Property is Ready!” – provides a comprehensive guide to preparing your property for this time of year – including gutter cleaning!

You don’t wear proper protective gear – Wear heavy-duty work gloves to keep your hands clean and protect yourself from any sharp objects that could be hidden in the debris. Additionally, rubber-soled shoes with good traction can help ward off slips on the ladder. Never wear flip-flops on a ladder! And don’t forget protective eyewear.

You don’t follow proper ladder safety precautions – A fall from a ladder can cause serious injury – or worse! Inspect the ladder carefully before use, and ensure the base has secure, even footing before climbing. If possible, have a family member or friend hold the bottom of the ladder for stability. While you’re up on the ladder, keep your hips between the side rails to maintain your balance and avoid overreaching. Instead, move the ladder to a new spot instead of reaching farther down your gutters.

Should You DIY or Hire a Professional?

This is a question only you can answer. We at The Paint Manager always emphasize safety first – and above all! Taking the DIY approach to save money is false economy if you lack the experience, knowledge, physical strength/agility, proper equipment/protective gear, etc., in order to do the job safely.

Also, don’t let pride get in the way. The more years that pass, you may find that tasks you could once accomplish easily are now more challenging. It is much better to stay healthy and independent than risk serious injury that could permanently limit your mobility.

Should you decide that doing it yourself is more demanding than you thought, leave it to our pros at The Paint Manager! We have the experience, skill, equipment and supplies to make sure the job is done correctly and safely!

The Paint Manager has been proudly serving Central Florida homeowners for over 20 years with experienced, dedicated and professional services that include exterior and interior house painting, roof repair and cleaning, drywall repair, popcorn ceiling texture removal, cabinet refinishing and so much more!

Plus, become a member of The Paint Manager to receive a 15% year-‘round member’s discount. Contact us to learn more about our services and membership discount offer. We look forward to meeting you!

11 Reasons Why DIY Projects Go Wrong

11 Reasons Why DIY Projects Go Wrong

Home renovation shows on cable television and YouTube tutorial videos make remodeling projects look deceptively easy. If you can pick up a hammer or power screwdriver, you can do it yourself and get professional-looking results!

However, such is far from the truth. According to a survey conducted by home services website Angi, nearly 80% of homeowners make a mistake while attempting to tackle a project themselves, which can result in property damage or serious injury at the worst – and at the least, a botched project that costs far more to correct than it would have had a licensed professional done the job.

Because we’d rather not have you find out the hard way, we at The Paint Manager provide the 11 most common reasons that DIY projects go wrong!

1. You Took on More than You Can Handle

Having confidence in yourself is a positive trait, but not when you attempt a DIY project that you lack the experience, skills, time or resources to handle. “If you’re a beginner, attempting an overly complex or specialized-skill-dependent project is a recipe for disaster,” writes home design expert Sharon Miki Chan in her article for HGTV. Instead, start with an easy project. If it turns out well, you’ll have a basis by which to determine your ability to successfully take on and complete jobs of increasing complexity. If not, you’ll learn your limitations without having lost too much, and know to hire a pro!

2. Poor Planning

Even a relatively easy project – such as painting an accent wall – requires planning before the work begins. “Take the time to figure out how long it should take to complete, what materials are required and what techniques you’ll need to know,” Chan writes.

Also, the bigger the project, the more care you need in planning! According to Forbes Home contributor Kristi Waterworth, “If you’re hanging cabinets, be mindful of where and how the doors swing, ensure that tiles aren’t too tall for the bathroom door to shut, and, whatever you do, make sure that dishwashers and stoves don’t have to fight for room to open. Planning is the difference between a final project that really works and one that is a source of constant pain.”

3. Poor Time Management

Another contributor to DIY fails is failing to realistically estimate the amount of time the project will require. This often leads to rushing through the project, which greatly increases the chances for mistakes.

When planning a project, consider how much time you have available. You may plan to do it on a weekend, over more than one weekend, after work, etc. But if you work full-time, will you be too tired to work on your project when you’d otherwise be relaxing or tending to other household chores? Do you have children who’ll need your attention while you’re replacing the bathroom floor tile? The time you assume you’ll have might not exist – leading to a project that drags on far longer than intended, or – as previously mentioned – gets slapped together in haste. The old adage “Haste makes waste” was never so true as in a home DIY project!

4. You Didn’t Use the Right Tools/Products

No matter how small the project, you need the right tools and products to achieve the desired result. Trying to make do with what you have available is a guaranteed route to failure – as is heading off to the hardware or big-box store to buy whatever paint brush, roller, etc., that appears to be good enough.

As interior design expert Jessica Bennett notes in her article for Better Homes & Gardens, “Many tools are designed for specific uses and materials, and employing them for other tasks could result in injury, longer working time, or poor quality results … This is especially important if your project calls for specialty tools, such as a certain type of power saw.”

Be sure you understand the specifications of the tools needed for the project, and make the investment. If the tool you need is too expensive to buy, you may be able to rent it at a home improvement center.

5. You Used the Wrong Materials

This mistake goes back to not adequately researching the requirements of the project. For those involving woodworking, buying the wrong grade of lumber for the job – or using cement tile for a kitchen backsplash – are common examples. FYI: Cement tile is a bad choice for this purpose because it’s very porous, which means it will absorb food particles, splatters and stains – making it impossible to clean. If you didn’t know before, you do now!

6. You Didn’t Understand the Materials You Were Working With

“It might seem like a board is a board and a nail is a nail, but the truth is that home tech is constantly evolving,” writes Waterworth. “If you don’t have any experience with building a deck out of composite material, for example, you need to get online and watch some videos and read up on it before you do, since the approach is different from using wood. The same goes for any materials you’re unfamiliar with, really.”

7. Getting Measurements Wrong

Another old adage, “Measure twice, cut once,” also applies to DIY projects! “Even a small discrepancy in measurements can throw off the entire project, but this common DIY mistake is easily avoidable,” Bennett writes. “Taking the time to measure, mark, then measure again can help ensure you have the right fit the first time. Keep in mind that the actual dimensions of your purchased materials might be slightly off, so it’s best to measure everything yourself to ensure accuracy.” To keep your measurements consistent, Bennett recommends using only one tape measure or ruler throughout the entire project. Be sure to keep the tool straight and at a right angle to the surface you’re measuring, and always double-check your measurements before continuing.

8. Skipping Steps

This is a rookie mistake that can get your project in serious trouble, if not result in an outright fail! While you may not think that a particular step is important to the outcome, that step was listed in the instructions for a good reason. Or you may not have researched the project well enough to know what steps need to be taken, and the order in which they need to be done. Thoroughly read all instructions ahead of time, and be sure you have the necessary skills and supplies to complete each step before you begin.

9. You Didn’t Do the Prep Work

Very closely related to Number 8, skipping necessary preparation work will produce a poor outcome. For example, Bennett notes that skipping straight to painting without sanding or priming the surface first can result in an uneven finish that peels or chips over time. And as Waterworth observes, “It will take extra time to do prep work properly, but by carefully smoothing, sanding, sweeping, priming, and the like, you’ll find that your final project comes together quickly and looks very professional.”

Our blog post – “Common Interior Painting Mistakes to Avoid” – covers this topic in greater detail.

10. The Job Required More than One Person

Going back to overconfidence, some projects need teamwork to make your dream work! Be realistic about how much people-power is required for the project – especially for those that involve heavy lifting or two sets of hands. Even Mr. Universe wouldn’t be able to install kitchen cabinets by himself

11. Ignoring Safety

DIY mistakes can be not only costly, but dangerous as well. According to the Angi survey, of the participants who experienced a “major” mistake during their DIY projects, 47% noted that the incident involved serious injury, while 44% mentioned starting a fire or falling off a roof or ladder. Safety is paramount when performing any DIY project, and taking all the recommended precautions can help you avoid accidents.

Take your time, and follow all safety guidelines when using tools or other equipment. Wear all necessary protective gear for the task at hand – which could include dust masks, safety glasses, hearing protection, long-sleeved clothing, or gloves. Whatever amount of money you’d save on such protective clothing isn’t worth the risk of injury that could send you to the ER, and result in medical bills and lost wages – as well as after-effects that may affect your health and well-being for the rest of your life!

Should You DIY or Call a Professional?

Of course, this is a question only you can answer. But if you’ve decided that doing it yourself is more demanding than you thought, leave it to our pros at The Paint Manager! We have the experience, skill, equipment and supplies to make sure the job is done correctly and safely!

The Paint Manager has been proudly serving Central Florida homeowners for over 20 years with experienced, dedicated and professional services that include exterior and interior house painting, roof repair and cleaning, drywall repair, popcorn ceiling texture removal, cabinet refinishing and so much more!

Plus, become a member of The Paint Manager to receive a 15% year-‘round member’s discount. Contact us to learn more about our services and membership discount offer. We look forward to meeting you!

How to Create a Great Home Office

How to Create a Great Home Office

The work-from-home movement that started during the COVID-19 pandemic shows no signs of reversing. Advancements in technology and software that make collaborative work easy allow people to do their job efficiently from any location. Sometimes, however, this idea requires planning and ingenuity to become a practical reality. We’ve pulled together the following advice from space planning and interior design professionals so you can create a great home office!

How to Get the Most from the Space You Have

Most people live in an average-size home, and may not have the luxury of an extra room that can be designated as a dedicated home office. If you do happen to have a spare bedroom, congratulations! If not, look at your home with fresh eyes. You may see potential in some areas that can provide the workspace you need, as well as the necessary separation from household activities and distractions.

Is there an area of your home that can do double-duty? This Old House suggests the following spaces that could be likely candidates, depending upon the layout of your home and other factors:

Kitchen – If you’re a single person or two-person household and cooking meals is mostly a matter of microwaving frozen dinners, the kitchen isn’t likely to be a big center of activity. Setting up a small office may be possible if there’s counter space at a comfortable height to work while seated, and clearance underneath for a chair. Even better if there’s enough empty space for a desk, chair and equipment, such as a printer.

Part of a butler’s pantry – This type of area is typically found in older homes. If you’re making only partial use of it, the rest of the space could accommodate a small office.

Dining room – With today’s casual lifestyles, a formal dining room is typically seldom used. Rearranging the furniture to comfortably accommodate a desk, chair and equipment may be an option. Or sell or donate your existing dining room furniture and buy a more compact dining set that doesn’t take as much space. This will make your home office feel more spacious.

Closet – Pressing a closet into service as a home office is now so common there’s even a name for it – cloffice! The Nordroom offers plenty of creative yet practical suggestions for fashioning one. This will necessitate removing the existing clothes poles and probably shelves to install new shelving that’s conducive to serving as a desk and storage.

Tucked into an alcove – If your home has an alcove or an irregularly shaped space – such as under the stairs – you’ve never quite figured out how to use, this could be your answer!

Armoire – While not on This Old House’s list, this piece of furniture was popular for use as a home entertainment center before the advent of flat-screen televisions. If you have one that’s long since outlived its usefulness for this purpose, re-purpose it as a self-contained home office!

Creating a Comfortable, Healthy Environment – Desk, Chair and Lighting

You can look for budget solutions for many aspects of your home office, but three elements are absolutely essential to your ability to work comfortably and efficiently – your desk, chair and lighting. Yes, we mean ergonomics! Our blog post – “Transform Your Workspace and Increase Productivity” – describes ergonomics as follows:

“Defined as the science of fitting a workplace to the user’s needs, ergonomics aims to increase efficiency and productivity and reduce discomfort. An understanding of ergonomics can prevent most workplace injuries by adjusting tools to the user, putting an emphasis on proper posture to reduce the impact of repetitive movements. Desks, chairs, monitors, keyboards and lighting all need to be assessed when creating a workspace, whether it is at a company office or home office.”

Ergonomic fundamentals include:

  • The top of the monitor should be below or at eye level. Eyes should be 24-36 inches from the computer screen.
  • Feet should be on a footrest or resting on the floor.
  • A slightly reclined chair posture is best to reduce pressure on your spine and minimize lower back pain.

The quality of lighting in your home office is also highly important. Inadequate or bad lighting can strain your eyes and cause fatigue, as well as headaches and irritability. Interior design expert Coral Nafie recommends the following in her article for The Spruce:

“To reduce eye strain, have lighting installed over your reading area, on the computer, and behind you so that there’s no reflection off the computer monitor. Place the computer monitor a comfortable distance from your chair so that you don’t need to squint or use reading glasses to read the screen. By reducing eye strain, you’ll be able to work longer and more safely.”

How to Use Paint or Wallpaper to Define the Workspace

Setting the right mood that allows you to focus on work is essential for a home office. Defining your workspace through paint or wallpaper helps establish the psychological mindset that this is the place to get down to business.

If you have an entire room to devote to your office, choose a neutral paint color. Add pops of color through accessories and wall art. If using part of a space in a larger room, paint (or wallpaper) the wall that your work area faces as an accent wall. It can be a brighter, bolder color than the other walls, but be sure it doesn’t clash.

Also, consider the type of work you’ll be doing – as well as your own personality! Those engaged in more artistic fields may want a home office that mirrors their nature. In such cases, out-of-the-box or bold colors can help convert a drab room into a creative one. Others may prefer to keep their home office looking tidy and clean-cut, in which case paint colors will be less distracting, such as neutrals. Whatever the case, the paint color or wallpaper you choose should be a reflection of how you want to structure your work environment and workflow.

If you go for a cloffice, you can line the interior walls with wallpaper to make a design statement that uplifts and inspires you throughout your workday! The Nordroom’s article has plenty of cloffice photos with ideas that are sure to get your creative juices flowing! As you’ll see, even a linen closet can be transformed into a functional and stylish workspace.

Whether you work for a company that allows you to work from home or work for yourself, you’ll be more productive – and happy – if your home office is functional, comfortable and inviting. Should you need help with planning, color and/or wallpaper recommendations – as well as painting and wallpaper installation – call us!

The Paint Manager has been proudly serving Central Florida homeowners for over 20 years with experienced, dedicated and professional services that include exterior and interior house painting, roof repair and cleaning, drywall repair, popcorn ceiling texture removal, cabinet refinishing and so much more!

Plus, become a member of The Paint Manager to receive a 15% year-‘round member’s discount. Contact us to learn more about our services and membership discount offer. We look forward to meeting you!

How to Paint a Kitchen

How to Paint a Kitchen

If your kitchen is looking a little drab and dated, you may be thinking about remodeling. But even a partial kitchen remodel is expensive – not to mention disruptive. Fortunately, there is a relatively quick and easy way to update the heart of your home at modest expense! A fresh coat of paint can work wonders in giving your kitchen a new look that makes it more bright, inviting and even trendy – if that’s your style!

One advantage of painting your kitchen is that unlike other rooms, the paintable areas are smaller. Compared to a living room, bedroom or hallway, a kitchen may have only one uninterrupted wall. Most of the kitchen space is covered with cabinets, backsplashes, a sink and appliances. However, the limited paintable areas do require more prep work and cleaning to achieve the desired smooth, professional-looking result.

You may notice that we’re leaving cabinets out of this blog post. Painting kitchen cabinets involves a completely different skill set, equipment and time requirements. Our blog post – “Should You Paint Your Kitchen Cabinets Yourself or Hire a Pro?” – covers this project in detail. Spoiler alert: We strongly recommend hiring a pro! As you’ll learn in the blog post, painting cabinets is much more complex than most homeowners assume, and it’s too easy to end up with cabinet doors that show drips and brush marks – or begin to blister and peel a few months later due to poor prep work.

Whether you decide to tackle painting the kitchen yourself or call a professional painter, this project gives you the opportunity to get creative and bring out a new side to your kitchen’s personality! That all starts with the paint color you choose! Before you get to the fun part, first determine the square footage of the walls that you need to paint. This will give you an idea of the quantity of paint that you need to buy.

Choosing the Right Color and Type of Paint for Your Kitchen

Your kitchen should look and feel good to make you want to cook. Moreover, your kitchen space gets a lot of attention, which is why it is important to choose your paint color wisely.

Whether you select a modern neutral, a nature-inspired color or a bright, cheerful color, your kitchen space should reflect your love of cooking, and be an inviting place where family and friends gather. The best kitchen paint colors will blend effortlessly with your kitchen flooring and cabinets. If you want a welcoming kitchen feel, opt for yellows or warm reds. However, if you want a breezy and sleek kitchen look, opt for neutrals and whites. Neutrals can work with other decor elements of your home well and give a more airy feel. HGTV offers great color ideas for kitchens in its blog post, which we invite you to read!

Choosing the right type of paint is more important when it comes to your kitchen space. Always opt for sheen or gloss-finish paint, as they are easy to clean and long-lasting. Choose the gradations of gloss wisely, as complete matte won’t be ideal for a kitchen. Wall areas without a backsplash can be stained by red sauce that bubbles up in the pot while cooking – as well as coated by grease and oil. Choose something in the middle – such as semi-gloss, sheens, or satin. Often people opt for high-glossy and lacquer finishes, as these are easy to clean and offer great kitchen visuals. But be careful. According to HGTV, “Glossier finishes tend to highlight imperfections in the wall, so this isn’t the best option if your walls have a few dents and dings.

Prepping the Kitchen

While the kitchen can be more difficult to paint than open spaces with fewer cabinets/obstacles to work around, in reality, it is easy to paint if done right. If you’re painting your kitchen walls as part of a complete kitchen remodeling project, Dengarden recommends painting the ceiling and walls before your countertops and cabinets are installed. After installation, you can go back and touch-up the walls where needed. Sequencing the work that way reduces the amount of prep work and cutting-in.

Assuming that painting is the only project that will be done, however, your focus will be on preparing the kitchen walls to ensure a clean, even surface. Home improvement expert Lee Wallender provides the following instructions in his article for The Spruce:

“Kitchens can build up grease in certain areas, so it’s best to thoroughly clean the walls with a degreaser prior to priming. Assume that areas above and around the stove, oven, and counters need to be cleaned with warm water and TSP (trisodium phosphate). Door trim usually can benefit from the TSP cleaning, too. Remove dust and cobwebs from the tops of baseboards and other trim with a vacuum and a damp cloth or tack cloth.”

If the walls have gloss paint, Dengarden advises mixing a stronger solution of TSP to dull glossy walls and improve adhesion of the new paint. Scrub the walls with a sponge, then rise with clean water. Mildew stains and mold can be eliminated with TSP, vinegar or bleach diluted with water. Do not mix vinegar with bleach. If your walls do have such stains, be sure the source of the mildew/mold has been eliminated, as both are serious health issues and will recur if the damage behind the wall that caused them isn’t repaired. Whether or not you need to remove mildew or mold, allow the walls to dry thoroughly before painting.

You may or may not choose to paint the ceiling. If the ceiling has a water stain from a roof or pipe leak, confirm that the source of the leak has been repaired before proceeding. Apply a stain-blocking primer, but don’t use latex, as it won’t cover water stains.

If necessary, patch and/or sand the walls. Nail pops and nail holes can be easily repaired using a good patching compound. Sand the walls using a drywall sanding sponge to eliminate imperfections and smooth the surface to enable the new paint to adhere better. If the kitchen walls are too glossy, sand them and use a bonding primer.

Apply painter’s tape to the trim and all other areas that will not be painted. Press firmly on the tape with your fingers to prevent bleed-through. Finally, cover your cabinets and countertops with 99-inch masking film. The plastic is long enough to cover most cabinets almost all the way to the floor. Cover the floor with canvas drop cloths, or a leak-proof floor protector.

Use the Right Technique When Painting Your Kitchen

Applying paint properly makes the difference between a professional-looking job and an amateur effort that you’ll be unhappy looking at for years to come (and that won’t impress potential buyers if you’re planning to sell your house soon). Our blog post – “Common Interior Painting Mistakes to Avoid” – provides a comprehensive list of major don’ts that are applicable to kitchen painting.  Here is a guide to correct kitchen painting technique:

Paint the ceiling first – If your painting project includes the ceiling, paint it first, as any drips will be covered when you paint the walls. Use an extension pole. The best extension pole length to use for painting a kitchen ceiling is one that extends eight feet. An eight-foot painting pole works great for rolling parts of the ceiling above cabinets and between can lights. The longer length lets you make wider roller passes with more reach and more control.

Apply primer, if needed – If a surface has already been painted and the paint is in good, clean condition, it will most likely not require priming. Unpainted drywall, bare wood, and painted surfaces in poor condition should be primed. Apply the primer with the roller on large areas and with the brush on areas too small to accommodate the width of the roller. Use a roller on the large expanses of wall and a brush for the little strips, such as between the backsplash and the cabinets.

Use a paint roller on large areas – Determine which areas are large enough to accommodate the roller. Pour a small amount of paint in the tray, soak the roller cover, then thoroughly roll out the excess. Roll the large spaces of the wall in a W-pattern, covering sections of about 4 feet by 4 feet. Bring the roller to about an inch or two of the painter’s tape.

Apply by brush where needed – Let the paint dry for about two hours. Dip the paintbrush in the paint and manually paint the areas that the roller could not reach. Avoid drips by minimally applying the paint and by re-brushing. Areas that were painted more than a few minutes before will likely already be filming over. Confine re-brushing to areas that were only recently painted.

Apply additional coats if necessary – Paint colors deepen and reach their full potential by being applied in two or even three coats. Allow the paint to dry for at least a couple of hours, then re-roll and re-brush the paint one more time.

Should You DIY or Call a Professional to Paint Your Kitchen?

This, of course, is a question only you can answer! To help you decide, Wallender offers this following wise advice:

“Painting a kitchen should be within the skill set of most DIYers, especially given the smaller scale when compared to other parts of the home. But you may want to have a paint contractor paint your kitchen if it is large, has a complex layout, or high ceilings. A professional painter can get to the out-of-the-way areas, plus they can address the often unusual geometry found in many kitchen spaces.”

We couldn’t have said it better ourselves – except to add that a professional will have the right experience, skill, equipment and supplies to make sure the job is done correctly and safely!  The Paint Manager has been proudly serving Central Florida homeowners for over 20 years with experienced, dedicated and professional services that include exterior and interior house painting, roof repair and cleaning, drywall repair, popcorn ceiling texture removal, cabinet refinishing and so much more!

Plus, become a member of The Paint Manager to receive a 15% year-‘round member’s discount. Contact us to learn more about our services and membership discount offer. We look forward to meeting you!

How to Paint a Front Door

How to Paint a Front Door

The first thing that people notice about your home is the front door. Make your entry door the star of your home’s exterior with the right color and type of paint. You can also add a pop of color to your front door to make it more welcoming while showing off your design skills. But how do you choose a front door color that is lively yet not too over the top? The Paint Manager is here with this guide to help you choose – and apply – the right color for your front door!

Choose the Right Type of Paint and Paint Color for Your Door

Your front door forms the first impression of your home in people’s minds, and affects how they feel about your house. Whether you plan on staying in your home or selling it, a front door that stands out for the right reasons adds a great deal to its curb appeal. Moreover, your front door has to withstand the elements every day, so you want the right type of paint to avoid peeling and fading. For example, according to Joe Cruz of Family Handyman, fiberglass doors need acrylic, polyurethane or epoxy paints that won’t weaken the integrity of fiberglass.

For doors made of other materials, Cruz recommends the following:

Semi-gloss acrylic latex paint This is one of the overall best types of paint for your front door. Many homeowners like it for its durability, color compatibility and easy clean-up. It’s great for steel, wood and fiberglass doors.

Semi-gloss latex enamel exterior paint and primer in one This eliminates the need for a primer coat. It works well for any type of door.

High-gloss oil-based exterior paint This paint is highly dynamic and resistant to cracking and chipping. It is ideal for wood or steel doors, but won’t work well with fiberglass doors. Also, unless your front door is extremely high-quality, a high-gloss finish will bring out its blemishes.

Water-based latex paint – This dries faster than oil-based paints. However, oil-based paints will prove to be more durable in the long run. Water-based latex paints are generally easy to work with and clean up quickly with water. Moreover, water-based latex paints can be found in no-VOC or low-VOC form, making them more eco-friendly.

According to HGTV, The most important thing to note is whether you have a latex- or oil-based paint. This is especially important for touch-ups, as you never want to paint oil over latex paint or vice versa. The type of primer you use also needs to match the type of paint you use (latex or oil-based).

Now that you know which type of paint to apply to which type of front door, let’s get down to choosing the right paint color!

The color of your front door should portray your unique personality and distinct style. Also, as colors have the ability to influence our mood, it is essential to choose a proper color for your front door. Your entry door color can communicate a subconscious message to your guests and create a welcoming, positive emotional reaction.

Quality Overhead Door offers this list of the most popular front door colors, and the psychology of each:

  • Red: A bold red entry door will help a home stand out. As a bonus, red is regarded as a lucky color in some cultures.
  • White: A white front door is ideal for traditional homes, and gives people an impression of an organized, well-maintained house.
  • Blue: This is one of the most calming options when it comes to painting your front door. The color conveys tranquility and peace. It also goes well with various colors.
  • Green: A harmonious hue, green is a key color found in nature. A green front door indicates a peaceful home with a friendly owner, and signifies a peaceful, welcoming environment.
  • Yellow: The color of sunshine, yellow denotes optimism and cheerfulness. A yellow-colored front door will attract the attention of your visitors immediately.
  • Purple: A pop of color can brighten up your mood as well as that of your visitors. A purple front door will signify a free spirit, and make your visitors smile every time they enter your house.
  • Black: As a traditional, elegant door color, a black front door shows passersby that the homeowner has refined taste. This dark shade suggests the interior of the home is equally sophisticated.

Tips for choosing the right color for your door:

  • Look at the outdoor environment of your home to draw some inspiration. The natural lighting, the color of the porch area, and the surroundings can help you decide the color of the front door.
  • Take your exterior design and home’s structure into account.
  • Consider the classics to never go wrong with your front door color selection. 
  • Make a monochromatic color scheme your best friend if you have a smaller home, as it will visually expand your home and make it appear larger than it really is.
  • Use the color wheel for reference. Better Homes & Gardens provides a helpful guide to using the color wheel to show which hues go together.
  • Introduce an elegant accent color throughout the door trim to pull together the rest of the exterior colors.

To help in the selection process, you can tape paint chips to your front door to understand how the color will look in natural light during different times of the day, and the overall design of your home’s exterior. If you have narrowed it down to two or three color choices, you may also purchase small samples of paint to perform a larger color swatch. Again, check out the color swatches that you have done at different times of the day to understand how the color looks when the light brightens or dims.

With your color selected, be sure you also choose the right time to paint! In Florida, this can be tricky, as there is actually a rather narrow window for exterior painting projects. Our blog post – “When is the Best Time of the Year to Have My House Painted?” – covers the challenges of exterior house painting in detail. The basic parameters are October through late March. These months are relatively dry, and Central Florida doesn’t have sustained periods of frigid winter temperatures. Pollen season starts in spring, depositing a thick, yellow layer that adheres to every stationary object – including houses. Hurricane season then quickly follows, running from June 1 through November 30. Summer also brings daily afternoon thunderstorms, giving house exteriors little chance to dry completely to be successfully painted.

Assuming you’re planning to do it yourself – and you’re confident you won’t get rained out or covered in pollen during the project – here are the steps to follow.

How to Prep the Front Door

The key to a long-lasting, attractive front door paint job is to properly prep the door. Painting over dirt, dust, cracks, holes, or peeling paint will significantly reduce the lifespan of the paint job.

There are two options for prepping and painting a front door: remove the door and place it on sawhorses or a folding table; or paint it in place. Whichever option you choose, Family Handyman provides the following preparation steps:

  • Scrape any loose or chipping paint using a paint scraper or putty knife.
  • Fill any dings or scratches with an all-purpose plastic wood filler.
  • Sand the entire door with 120-grit sandpaper, smoothing over any imperfections and flaws.
  • Vacuum or blow off all the dust and debris that may have collected. Wipe the entire door with a clean damp cloth.
  • Use painter’s tape to mask off any glass or edges of the door you don’t want paint on.

Front Door Painting Techniques

Start your front door painting by applying the primer, making sure to cover the entire door. You can use a roller to distribute the primer evenly. You may need to apply a second coat of primer to the areas where the initial primer application was thin.

Once the primer dries, use a paintbrush to cover up any details or trim work on the door. Next, finally, start painting the door. You can use a paintbrush, foam roller, or a low-nap roller for this.

If you want a nice hand-painted look, opt for a paintbrush. You can also use a roller first and then use a paintbrush while doing the final coat to attain this look. Make sure that the door is completely dry before you start reattaching the hardware (if you have removed it).

Taking the DIY approach to painting your front door can be successful if you have a good skill level and experience in home improvement projects. As you’ve learned, preparation, patience and a steady hand are essential to achieving a great result! Since your entry door is so important to making a good first impression, you want a professional-quality job.

If you’re not confident in your DIY skills – or would rather leave it to the pros – call The Paint Manager! We’ve proudly served Central Florida since 2000 with quality residential and commercial painting services. Our experienced team will use the right primer and paint for your door, seamlessly applied to make the perfect statement for your home!

Visit our website to learn about many other services we provide – including pressure washing, roof cleaning and stump removal. Become a member of The Paint Manager to receive a 15% year-‘round member’s discount. Contact us to learn more about our services and membership discount offer. We look forward to meeting you!

How to Texture Your Interior Walls

How to Texture Your Interior Walls

When it comes to home improvement projects, there aren’t many that don’t involve a good deal of expense and/or heavy labor. So if you’re wondering how you can quickly improve the look of your interior walls without making a big investment, texturing them may be the solution you’re looking for!

Wall texture is a product that is thicker than paint, yet thinner than drywall compound, although drywall compound can be used. Three main types are available – a ready-to-use roll-on product, dry mix (powder to be mixed in water) and spray (may be water- or oil-based). Products in a spray can are better suited for touch-ups to an existing wall texture, however. And while applying texture to one or more walls is relatively easy as DIY projects go, it still requires prep work and specialized tools that you may have to rent or purchase. That said, compared to other solutions, texturing can save you time and money – with the plus side of providing a stylish interior décor touch!

The Advantages of a Textured Wall Surface

As home renovation expert Lee Wallender writes for The Spruce, “Wall texture is often applied out of necessity … But wall texture does have the distinct advantage of being a quick method of finishing walls without the seemingly endless cycles of mudding, curing, and sanding drywall compounds. Wall texture can cover up imperfect drywall or mudding work, and it dries rapidly enough that you can begin painting just hours later.”

For this reason, texturing is ideal for concealing drywall repairs that leave visible seams. It also can be used to cover minor wall damage – such as gouges that don’t go through the drywall – as well as areas in which molding or wainscoting have been removed. While Wallender contends that most homeowners would prefer a smooth surface, achieving it involves the expense and upheaval of installing new drywall. Our blog post – “Types of Drywall You Need to Know About” – covers this topic in greater detail.

Wallender’s assumption could be just an expression of his own preference, as texturing offers a way to get creative and make a unique, stylish statement. Even if you’re not trying to conceal a flawed wall surface, texturing can create an eye-catching accent wall, or add dimension and character to a room.

Should you decide to take the plunge, there are some design principles to keep in mind. As you learn about the different types of textured finishes that follow, choose the finish that best complements the space. For example, comb or orange peel would be appropriate for an accent wall in a small-to-medium-size room, while knockdown or slap brush knockdown might be overwhelming.

Also, be careful if texturing more than one wall in a room. Again, keep visual proportions in mind, and avoid choosing a texture that calls attention to itself. You want the texture to work with all the other elements in the room, rather than be the first thing that you and others see!

Types of Textured Finishes

There are seven main types of textured wall finishes. Home improvement writer Timothy Dale and home renovation legend Bob Villa describe each in an article for Villa’s self-named website, as well as recommended preparation steps and application techniques.

Comb – This texture is one of the most basic techniques, allowing you to create lines of various widths and shapes. This technique is often used to produce a repeated series of rainbow patterns. It requires drywall compound, a roller and a drywall trowel that has evenly spaced teeth (or uneven teeth if you are going for a less organized pattern). Apply the drywall compound to the wall using the roller, then use the teeth of the trowel to gently apply lines in the wet compound.

Popcorn – Although popcorn texture ceilings have a bad reputation, this finish on a wall creates a different impression – especially after painting! If you intend it to be a true accent wall, a popcorn texture wall painted a different color from the room’s other walls will make it stand out in a good way. To create this finish, you need popcorn texture, an air compressor and a hopper gun.

Orange peel – This texture looks exactly as it sounds – it resembles the peel of an orange. Prime the walls so that the texture has a smooth, dirt-free surface to stick to. Use a hopper gun with an adjustable valve, a drywall compound and an air compressor.

Knockdown – This creates a unique, rustic pattern, akin to stucco. Knockdown can be achieved by adding a step to the orange peel technique: After applying an orange peel texture to the walls, flatten the peaks and bumps that form in the drywall compound using an 18-inch or wider knockdown knife. Smaller rooms will likely require a wait period of about 10 to 15 minutes after spraying before the peaks can begin to be flattened, while a larger room can probably be started as soon as you are finished spraying. Just be sure to begin flattening in the same area that you began spraying.

Sand swirl – This creates an artistic, free-form effect that isn’t overwhelming. Use a compound known as perlite (primer with sand mixed into it) and a 7-inch-wide paint brush. Hold the paintbrush by the base, as this will give you more control than holding the handle. Dip the brush a few inches into the perlite, giving it a wipe on either side of the bucket to remove loose drips. Start at the top of the wall, making a big loop with an open bottom. Each row of this swirl pattern will cover up the bottom of the previous row. 

Slap brush – The slap brush texture creates a random pattern of thin lines that add an eccentric flair to any room. This type of wall texture is a great choice if you aren’t confident with a spray gun. All that’s needed is a roller, a double crows foot drywall texture brush (also known as a slap brush) and drywall compound. Mix the compound with water until it reaches a thick paint consistency, then apply it evenly to the wall using your roller. Complete two 5-foot-wide sections before picking up the slap brush. Apply drywall compound to each side of the slap brush in a thin coating, and then begin slapping the first section of the wall with the brush. There shouldn’t be any specific pattern to the texture, so have fun and mix it up by twisting the angle of the slap brush in the air between slaps. 

Slap brush knockdown – This texture combines the slap brush technique with the flattening step of the knockdown texture to create a random pattern of flatter, wider lines, instead of peaked, thin lines. To apply this texture, you will need a roller, slap brush, knockdown knife and drywall compound. Using the slap brush technique, work your way around the room until each wall is evenly covered in a slap brush texture. For smaller rooms, wait 10 to 15 minutes before beginning to flatten the peaks using the knockdown knife. For larger rooms, you can begin flattening the peaks immediately.

How to DIY – But Call a Pro if You Need Help

You may have noticed that some of the application techniques that Dale and Villa recommend require sprayers or other types of equipment you might not feel confident using. Fear not! Shannon Cooper provides a simplified method in her article for 21 Oak. The basic steps follow. Please read the article in its entirety for complete step-by-step instructions.

Prep work – Applying texture to a wall is a messy process. Lay drop cloths on the floor and use plastic sheeting and painter’s tape to cover windows, trim and doorways. Pre-coat the wall by applying a layer of drywall primer or flat white latex paint, then let dry. This step is vital. Otherwise, the bare drywall will absorb the texture paint, negating all of your hard work.

Prepare the texture compound – Mix the texture material after the primer dries completely. Take a 5-gallon bucket and mix four parts of drywall and one part of water. Use the paint mixer attachment of your drill to mix thoroughly. The consistency should be like a thick pancake batter. You can also buy premade texture paint if you don’t want to make your own. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions, and stir the paint thoroughly before applying it to the wall.

Roll the texture on the wall – Adding texture to a wall must be done in two stages: rolling on the compound and, when that layer is partially dry, applying a second coat. Begin by filling the paint tray with the texture paint or handmade texture compound. Dip your roller into the paint, roll it out, and begin applying it to the wall. A standard roller cover will create a texture, but you may want to try a cover specifically designed for texture. If you’re using store-bought paint, follow all the manufacturer’s directions, as they may only recommend one coat. For corners and other areas that are difficult to reach with your roller, apply the texturing material with the flat face of a paintbrush.

After it dries, apply the texture again – It is crucial to know when to apply the second coat. Let the first coat dry halfway, then apply the second. To check how dry the texture is, press your thumb against the wall and remove it. Apply the second coat after the first coat dries to the desired level. Use a paintbrush to cover corners and crevices effectively.

Get the finish you want – As mentioned earlier, there are many types of texture. If you have the right tools, you can create a variety of finishes. Cooper describes how to create a knockdown finish, which looks like textured plaster. To achieve this effect, run a drywall knife across the surface with the blade held at a flat angle before the wall is completely dry. Once the wall is dry, those who used homemade drywall compound can seal the surface with primer and paint it with their chosen color.

Now that you know the many techniques for texturing walls, you may have answered your own question as to whether you can – or should – do it yourself, or hire a professional. While Cooper’s method can be accomplished by those with beginner-level DIY skills, those who want to cover more than one wall or use a different technique requiring specialized equipment – such as an air-compressor-powered electric sprayer – would be advised to call a pro. Also, a professional has experience in knowing the proper texturing compound consistency – plus has the relevant expertise, appropriate tools, personal protective equipment and assistance, if needed.

The Paint Manager offers experienced, professional application of wall texturing, as well as drywall repair. Our team has been proudly serving Central Florida homeowners for over 20 years with experienced, dedicated and professional services that include exterior and interior house painting, roof repair and cleaning, drywall repair, popcorn ceiling texture removal, cabinet refinishing and so much more!

Plus, become a member of The Paint Manager to receive a 15% year-‘round member’s discount. Contact us to learn more about our services and membership discount offer. We look forward to meeting you!

Hurricane Season is Here! Make Sure Your Property is Ready!

Hurricane Season is Here! Make Sure Your Property is Ready!

It’s once again hurricane season in Central Florida! If this is your first in the Sunshine State, Atlantic hurricane season runs from June 1 through November 30, with August and September typically the most active months. Forecasters at NOAA’s Climate Prediction Center — a division of the National Weather Service — predict a 65% chance of an above-normal hurricane season this year. Although our area has been spared a direct hit the past few years, it doesn’t pay to take chances when it comes to preparing your property to prevent or minimize hurricane damage.

Why You Need to be Prepared

Unlike tornados, hurricanes travel according to a trajectory that can be predicted with a good degree of accuracy – and even fast-moving storms usually give those in their path about 24 to 48 hours to either batten down the hatches or evacuate. While this may seem like a good amount of time, you don’t want to be scrambling to move outdoor furniture, planters, etc., indoors or to a more sheltered area while making sure you have enough batteries, flashlights and emergency provisions (a.k.a. “hurricane food”) to see you through a possible prolonged power outage. This also is not the time you want to be worried about that brittle old tree branch hanging over your roof!

While hurricanes tend to be the focus this time of year, it’s also the season for tropical storms – which have sustained winds of 39 to 73 mph and may or may not become a hurricane.

Hurricanes and tropical storms aside, our almost-daily summer afternoon thunderstorms are sometimes severe enough to wreak havoc on trees, landscaping and home exteriors – as well as cause flooding in low-lying areas or yards with poor drainage.

We at The Paint Manager want you to be ready if a hurricane hits Central Florida or nature unleashes its fury with other severe storms. In addition to following the steps recommended here, we encourage you to read our previous blog posts on this topic:

Check Your Roof, Exterior Walls and Screened Enclosure

Roofs are particularly vulnerable to hurricane damage. Mark Kaufman Roofing recommends having the roof inspected and any needed repairs taken care of promptly. “This might include getting damaged or missing shingles or tiles replaced, having missing metal panel anchors replaced, getting any flashing defects dealt with, and making sure that loose soffits, ventilation turbines and gable end/eave vents are properly secured. Have hurricane straps or truss tie-downs added in the attic to bolster the roof/wall connections and bracing installed if your roof has gable ends taller than 48 inches.”

Also be sure to clean out the gutters and repair any deficiencies – such as sagging or poorly-attached sections, or loose or poorly-placed downspouts. If your gutters are clogged, the backed-up water will sit on your roof, and the probability of water entering your house will increase.

Next, assess the condition of your home’s exterior walls. It is crucial to caulk any cracks you see. Left unrepaired, they can cause damage when breached by driving hurricane-force winds and rain. The most weather-resistant types of caulk are silicone, urethane and Elastomeric latex caulk. Other options include acrylic and latex caulk, with the latter being especially easy to apply.

Inspect each window and door, and reseal if needed. Florida’s high summer temperatures take a toll on caulk around these components, making it necessary to reseal them more frequently than in moderate climates. Ygrene recommends checking the caulk around the frame and glazing around the panes carefully.

If your home has a screened pool enclosure, Dulando Screen & Awning offers the following advice:

Brace your screen enclosure – When bad weather takes down pool screen enclosures, inadequate bracing is often to blame. Pool enclosure hurricane braces reinforce the structural integrity of the pool enclosure. Verifying that your pool cage has hurricane braces before a storm arrives can minimize damage.

Check your enclosure’s hardware – Screws are small, but they can have a major effect when it comes to pool enclosure hurricane safety. Florida’s high humidity allows rust to flourish, and rusted fasteners leave a structure weak. Checking that your enclosure is built with corrosion-resistant fasteners is a simple way to ensure that it has the strength to survive nasty weather.

Preparing Your Yard to Prevent Storm Damage

Paying attention to the condition of your trees and trimming branches and/or removing dead or declining trees should be done before hurricane season, but there’s still time if you act now. As mentioned earlier, heavy branches hanging over your roof can snap off in a hurricane and crash through your roof, or crush the top of your vehicle. Ditto for an uprooted tree. Branches also can become projectiles and crash through windows – yours, or a neighbor’s!

An article in TC Palm warns about a particular risk of waiting until a hurricane watch or warning is issued before pruning. “Trash pickups will be suspended and your trimmings can become dangerous airborne projectiles propelled by the storm’s high winds.”

Other tips from TC Palm include:

  • Call a professional – Trees trimmed by a professional arborist are far less likely to fall.
  • Thinning a tree allows wind to blow through its canopy, offering less wind resistance in a storm. Prune young trees to create a single leader, which will grow into a strong trunk.
  • Minimize damage to mature trees by removing weak branches and reducing limb lengths.
  • Hatracked trees become sails. Removing a tree’s canopy encourages bushy growth, making a tree top-heavy and wind-resistant. Hatracking also is illegal.
  • “Lifted” trees lead to broken branches. “Lifting” is a practice in which lower branches are removed for clearance underneath. It can cause branch breakage and makes trees top-heavy.

Short-term preparations involve moving patio furniture, grills and container plants indoors or to a sheltered area. TC Palm provides this important to-do list:

  • Take in hanging pots and baskets. Secure or take in pots from shade houses.
  • Secure young trees with additional stakes.
  • Don’t remove fruit. If you put it in a trash pile and the pile isn’t picked up, the fruit may fly around in the wind.
  • Tree-dwelling bromeliads, staghorn ferns and orchids can be secured with fishing line.
  • Take in or tie up piles of yard or construction debris.
  • Take in all garden furniture, grills, outdoor torches, string lights and other such items. (Do not sink furniture in the swimming pool.)

Being prepared for a hurricane can help you feel more confident, knowing you’ve taken every step to make your home safe and secure. If you need help getting ready, The Paint Manager has served Central Florida since 2000 with quality professional services that include roof repair, caulking, gutter cleaning and painting.

Visit our website to learn about the many other services we provide – including pressure washing, roof cleaning and stump removal. Become a member of The Paint Manager to receive a 15% year-‘round member’s discount. Contact us to learn more about our services and membership discount offer.

Should You Paint Your Kitchen Cabinets Yourself or Hire a Pro?

Should You Paint Your Kitchen Cabinets Yourself or Hire a Pro?

Kitchen remodeling can dig a deep hole in your pocket. In its annual Cost vs. Value report for 2019, Remodeling Magazine put the average for a midrange major kitchen remodel in the South Atlantic Region (Maryland, South Carolina, Florida, North Carolina, Georgia, Virginia and Washington, D.C.) at $66,196 and an upscale major kitchen remodel at $131,510. For those who want to freshen up their kitchen with economy in mind, painting the kitchen cabinets can provide an updated look that won’t break the bank. Those who really want to save money may be considering the DIY approach. Although there is no shortage of instructions and tutorials online, taking on this project can involve much more than you bargained for – and could go above your budget if you botch the job and need to call a professional painter anyway.

Regardless of which course of action you decide, you first need to determine if your cabinets can be painted. Solid wood doors are a definite “yes.” In fact, if they’re in good condition, they can be refinished with a wood stain that allows the grain and beauty of the wood to come through. Our blog post – “Cabinets – Don’t’ Replace, Refinish!” – covers this option in detail.

Other types of cabinetry materials are capable of being successfully painted. According to Real Homes, cabinet doors of melamine and other types of laminate (and even particleboard) may be painted, but additional steps are necessary to achieve a good result.

Look Before You Leap – The Pros and Cons of DIY Cabinet Painting

The detailed step-by-step instructions and video tutorials that home improvement centers provide online may give you a false sense of confidence in tackling this formidable project. Yes, this very blog post provides links to such websites. But when you visit, read between the lines of what you see, and compare it to an honest self-evaluation of your ability to do likewise.

Unfortunately, many people underestimate the following when deciding to take the DIY route:

  • The full extent of work involved – especially for projects requiring disassembly and reassembly.
  • The amount of disruption and inconvenience for household members during the project, assuming it takes longer than one day.
  • The ultimate cost – inexperienced do-it-yourselfers tend to buy the wrong materials/equipment/tools, or not enough – and/or don’t realize they need additional products or items until well underway because the video tutorial didn’t cover them. The project can be even more expensive if a professional needs to be hired to complete or correct the job.
  • The amount of time the project finally involves – inexperienced do-it-yourselfers don’t tend to factor in for unforeseen setbacks. Don’t assume that every step will go as smoothly as the video tutorial.

However, one factor that people too often overestimate is their physical ability to do the work. Every project demands some degree of strength, stamina and agility. If painting your kitchen cabinets is your first DIY rodeo, you may find it too demanding – even if you’re relatively young! And if you’re more young-at-heart, keep in mind that tasks you found easy to perform in earlier years may be more challenging now.

Assuming you’re going more on confidence than experience, there’s one final factor to consider: the result. Will you be satisfied with the outcome if your freshly painted cabinets show tell-tale brush marks, an uneven surface, paint drips, etc.? Or will you be disappointed that they don’t look as smooth and perfect as you’d envisioned? If the latter reaction is more likely, we highly recommend hiring a professional painter. Yes, we’re getting ahead of ourselves, but for all practical purposes, the odds are against you removing the cabinet doors, sanding them down and trying again.

It’s a different story if you’re experienced in home improvement projects demanding intermediate to advanced skills. Should this be the case, you’re more likely to have a realistic idea of the scope of the job – as well as the appropriate tools and protective clothing and equipment.

How to Paint Your Kitchen Cabinets Yourself

The full instructions for doing a thorough job are too long and detailed to be provided here. We therefore recommend you read the entire step-by-step process on Real Homes, as well as on the Lowe’s website. The overview is as follows:

Select the paint and gather the tools and materials The paint selection largely depends on the look you want for your kitchen. However, it also depends on the material you work on and your experience level. Buy the paint and primer at the same time. Also, be sure that you have all the materials and tools before you start work.                                                      

Remove doors and drawer fronts Before starting, remove the doors and drawer fronts that you intend to paint. If you can, remove all the handles and hardware. If you can’t, tape up anything you don’t want painted. If you want to change the handles, fill the holes with a wood filler, let dry, sand them properly and drill new holes for a smooth finish.

Clear out and clean your cabinets Empty your cabinets, then clean the surface with a trisodium phosphate (TSP) cleanser to remove grease and dirt. TSP is a toxic substance, so follow label instructions carefully.

Sand the surfaces – Cover your countertops, appliances and other areas you want to protect. Placing painter’s tape on the wall along the cabinet edges is helpful. Sand everything with a medium grit sandpaper to help the paint stick to the surface. Fold the sandpaper to get into the detailed areas on doors and drawers, and in the corners on the frames.

Prime the cabinets After sanding and cleaning, you need to add the first coat of primer. The choice of primer would depend on the material you are painting. For example, you can use a wooden primer or undercoat for wood doors and a multi-purpose primer or a specialist surface primer for laminate doors.

Add an even coat of primer to the surface and let it dry (this could take a couple of hours). For laminate and veneer doors, you can sand them once more. Sanding again provides them additional texture so that the paint adheres to the surface properly.

For a smooth, professional finish, two thin coats of primer are more effective than one thick coat.

Apply the first coat of paint After the primer dries, apply the first coat of paint. Make sure to stir the paint if it is highly pigmented. If you are painting with a brush, work in both directions to evenly distribute the paint. A thin layer is better than a thick coat. When dry, sand uneven surfaces (if any), then clean the surface completely.

Apply the second coat You can use your brush to apply the second coat. Make sure you cover all crevices. To finish, you can use a sponge roller, which will give you an even finish and hide any brush marks.

Let the doors dry Don’t be impatient. Give the paint not only enough time to be dry to the touch, but to cure before reassembling the cabinet doors – which is typically two to three days.

Reassemble the doors After your kitchen cabinet doors dry, screw the handles back on and reattach the doors. 

Why You Should Hire a Pro – From a Professional’s Perspective

Jenny Robinson – manager of Paper Moon Painting, Austin and San Antonio, TX – brings an insider’s perspective to this matter. What follows are her own words. This is reprinted only in part. Her entire article is well worth your time to read!

“You can Google ‘Should I paint my kitchen cabinets’ and come up with all kinds of how-to’s geared to get clicks from DIYers everywhere. But as a manager for a painting contractor, I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been called to a home to estimate fixing kitchen cabinets that had been painted by a person who simply followed the steps from an Instagram post. It’s even worse if the info came from a DIY house flipper, who only cares about speed and turnaround time … I have directly reached out to several DIY home flippers to tell them that skipping sanding and priming is a sin when it comes to painting kitchen cabinets, only to be shrugged off. These encounters leave me wanting to shout from the rooftops, DO NOT DIY YOUR KITCHEN CABINET PAINTING! (I know it’s rude to shout, but I feel that strongly about it!)

“First of all, it’s going to take a serious time commitment. To paint your kitchen cabinets in a manner comparable to a professional paint job could require over two hours of time per cabinet door or drawer if you’re going to do it right, and several more hours for your base cabinets. (By the way, most kitchens have at least 50 cabinet doors and drawers, just to put this in perspective.)

“Our pro painters remove all doors and drawer fronts, they never paint cabinet pieces in place, that’s just asking for trouble (bad brushwork and paint ending up on your hinges, for starters). They also cover all surfaces not being painted with paper, plastic, and tape in preparation for the sprayed finish, and this step alone can suck up a full weekend if you’re not a pro.

“Our painters spray the paint finish with professional equipment, so the cabinet paint is never brushed or rolled, (brush marks and roller stipple, no thank you!). (If you want to see the full process, including video, we write about it here.)

“It takes a 2-man crew of our professional painters (seasoned veteran painters who do hundreds of these projects a year) an average of 3-5 days to complete the entire process, longer for larger kitchens. Anyone who says you can paint your whole kitchen in one weekend by yourself is grossly misinformed or doing it wrong. 

“First, you have to thoroughly clean your cabinets, but this is the part most people skimp on. Grease and oils from cooking or washing dishes have a way of permeating cabinets, and can be a pain to truly remove … Our professional painters first use a standard household degreaser, followed up by a more heavy duty industry specific chemical degreaser … What happens if you bypass, or half-step this part? You’ll achieve a beautiful finish… that will quickly chip off on those greasy areas.

“Next, we sand, but you’ve got to sand the right amount. You want to sand enough to rough up the surface, but not so much you cut all the way through to the raw wood. Then we apply the first coat of primer, then we sand again, then we apply the second coat of primer, then we sand again to get ready for the finish coat.

“Just like you wouldn’t DIY building a couch, you shouldn’t DIY painting your cabinets. Painting kitchen cabinets is vastly more complicated, more aggravating, and much more expensive to fix. I’m not saying you can’t successfully paint your own kitchen cabinets. Many DIYers can, and do. I am just asking you to think of the long-term ramifications. Just because the immediate result looks decent, does not mean it will be long-lasting. In fact, I would wager a hefty sum of money that if you skip sanding and primer, or if you use the wrong paint, then in six months or less you are going to have issues.”

The Take-Home Message

If you have successful, solid home improvement jobs under your tool belt, it may be possible for you to achieve an outcome that looks professional and will last for years to come. If not, follow Robinson’s advice and leave the painting to the pros.

Our team at The Paint Manager has been proudly serving Central Florida homeowners for 20 years with experienced, dedicated and professional services that include exterior and interior house painting, roof repair and cleaning, drywall repair, popcorn ceiling texture removal, cabinet refinishing and so much more!

Plus, become a member of The Paint Manager to receive a 15% year-‘round member’s discount. Contact us to learn more about our services and membership discount offer. We look forward to meeting you!

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